Review: Lisa Elmqvist Restaurant, Stockholm, Sweden

The Elmqvist family has been celebrated for its dedication to fresh seafood and traditional Swedish fare for almost 100 years. Lisa was the daughter of a fisherman and began trading her produce at a street market by the waterfront before moving to Östermalm’s Saluhall, which was renovated in 2020 and is located at Östermalmstorg in the heart of Stockholm.

Four generations later, the Lisa Elmqvist name now has a significant presence within the food hall, with multiple food stalls, a restaurant and a wine bar.

The food

The first thing to note is that Lisa Elmqvist has the trust of the King of Sweden, being the only fish and seafood shop in the country to have a Royal Warrant. Where better, then, to sample a fish restaurant in the capital?

Among our starters, we tried the Skagen toast – a Swedish classic that is a mix of shrimps, mayonnaise and dill, served on toast, garnished with trout roe and accompanied by a wedge of lemon. It’s a popular appetiser and, prepared like this with quality ingredients, it’s easy to see why.

If you’re looking for a wider range of tastes, the kitchen’s choice of five delicacies is a delicious option. It includes the Skagen toast and other classic Swedish delicacies like cured salmon, pickled herring, and smoked eel.

The mains include everything from fish and chips served with a green pea purée and tartar sauce…

…to my choice, which was the steamed halibut served with butter-fried chantarelles, beans and kohlrabi, salmon roe and a Sandefjord sauce flavoured with dill. The fish was cooked to perfection – so delicate and tender – and the sauce was a luxurious and indulgent complement.

Another recommendation would be my wife’s butter-fried fillet of salmon which came with a parmesan and herb crust, roasted pumpkin purée and a red wine gravy flavoured with ginger.

While I skipped dessert, had I not done so, I would probably have opted for the kids’ choice of the chocolate cake with salted caramel cream and lightly whipped cream, although the warm cloudberries with vanilla ice cream, lightly whipped cream and almond flake also sounded rather tempting.

The chef

Lisa retired from the business in 1968 and lived for a further 10 years, but her experience, knowledge and recipes live on to this day, thanks to the guidance of four generations of the Elmqvists, and a team of talented chefs who have a genuine interest in the handling and preparation of fish and shellfish. An open-plan kitchen allows you to see their skills at work.

The ambiance

The moment you enter the food hall, the aromas capture your senses. Restaurant seating for Lisa Elmqvist is interspersed by walkways used by shoppers and diners alike, as well as food stalls that set the scene for a very relaxed ambiance.

The cost

Starters are priced from 145 SEK, approximately $14 USD (for silltallrik – a herring plate of three varieties served with dark rye bread and Västerbotten cheese) all the way up to 1,290 SEK (for the Lisa Elmqvist Royal Siberian Caviar).

Mains are typically around the 300-400 SEK range ($30-$40), but obviously depend on precisely what you choose. Expect to pay more for the shellfish platter, for instance.

The final verdict

Lisa Elmqvist is a name that’s become synonymous with first-class fish and seafood – and for good reason, earning its excellent reputation and culinary legacy over the last century. If you love the delicacies of the sea, we highly recommend that you visit the restaurant for lunch or dinner to sample what is – quite literally – produce that has been deemed fit for a King.

Disclosure: Our visit was sponsored by Lisa Elmqvist and our trip was kindly supported by Visit Stockholm.